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Zagreb: A city of history, legends and a message from the Universe

THE WHODUNIT WANDERER, DR. MANJIRI PRABHU*

It was then that an old local musician, sitting by the pavement, began playing Lara’s Theme from the film Dr. Zhivago on his electric guitar. He was jauntily dressed in a blue cap, brown jacket, dark glasses, and a checked scarf around his neck.

Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, holds a special significance for me. Travel offers new experiences, ideas for novels, and sometimes—answers. It is said that if you ask the Universe a question, it does indeed respond. Well, it was in this beautiful old town of Zagreb that I asked the Universe for a clear sign and a message—and it gave me both! Now you can imagine my fondness for this lovely city, both as a writer and as a traveler…

But more about that later.

My friends and I traveled from Ljubljana to Zagreb by bus. We were on holiday and determined to make the most of our time in Croatia.

The Cathedral. All photos courtesy of Dr. Manjiri Prabhu.

Our first introduction to the city was the expansive Ban Jelačić Square, the heart of Zagreb’s pedestrian zone. The paved stone blocks, the tall buildings with age-old facades, the eye-catching statue of Ban Josip Jelačić, the towering spires of the Cathedral, and the trams gliding by created a scene straight out of a film. But the most charming feature of the square was Manduševac, the historic fountain nestled in a shallow basin on one side.

Legend has it that this entire region was once a desert. One day, a military commander, exhausted and thirsty, struck his stick on the parched earth, and water gushed forth. A girl named Magdalena happened to be passing by, and the commander called out, “Mando, dušo, zagrabi vode” (“Manda, sweetheart, grab me some water”). The spring was named Manduševac from his words Mando and dušo, while the town that arose around it became Zagreb, derived from zagrabi. Aptly known as the Spring of Good Fortune, today, tourists gather around the bubbling fountain, tossing in coins for luck. High-school students entering adulthood even take a quick dip in its waters for blessings.

I muttered my own little prayer as my friends explored the vibrant farmers’ market at the center of the square.

We visited the majestic Zagreb Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Its creamy facade, flanked by two 100-meter spires, dominates the city skyline. The intricately designed portal and the soaring spires give the Gothic cathedral an air of grandeur. Inside, the neo-Gothic interior was an elegant mix of solemnity and brilliance, with magnificent stained-glass windows casting colored reflections on the floors. We lit candles and spoke in hushed tones, admiring the artistry and history embedded in the cathedral’s walls.

The statue of Pluto, the construction dog.

Close to the square, we came across an unexpected but touching sight—the Construction Dog Pluto statue. Folklore tells of a stray dog who arrived at a construction site and stayed, loyally guarding the workers from thieves. Sadly, towards the end of the project, Pluto was killed in a workers’ conflict. In honor of his devotion, a memorial plaque was installed. Dogs, no matter where in the world, have always been symbols of love and loyalty, and Pluto’s story resonated deeply with me.

A short bus ride took us to the iconic St. Mark’s Church, standing alone in the middle of a square like a lone sentinel. Built in the 13th century, the church is famous for its striking multi-colored tiled roof, which resembles an elaborate cross-stitch embroidery, depicting the Coat of Arms of Croatia and the Emblem of Zagreb. The South Portal, a masterpiece of Gothic sculpture, features 15 deeply etched figures of the Virgin Mary with the Child, Christ, St. Mark, and the apostles. As we admired the tall spire, its engraved year—1841—stood as a silent testament to its age and endurance. Suddenly, the bells began to clang, their chimes reverberating through the square, filling us with reverential awe.

Inside, the church’s arches opened up like the petals of a flower, creating a sense of serene grandeur. After taking countless pictures outside, we strolled through the quaint streets, stopping to savor roasted corn while enjoying the mild sun on our faces. It was one of those rare, satisfying moments of stillness.

A fountain in Zagreb.

And then, it happened.

As we wandered through the streets, an old local musician, seated by the pavement, began playing Lara’s Theme from Dr. Zhivago on his electric guitar. The melody, so closely linked to my novel The Trail of Four, caught my attention instantly. Dressed in a blue cap, brown jacket, dark glasses, and a checked scarf, he played with effortless mastery, his notes filling the air with heady, musical magic.

As I stood mesmerized, I realized—the Universe was responding to my question! But how could I be sure the message was meant for me?

At that precise moment, as if on cue, the musician’s wife appeared, leading a glossy black dog. The sight made my heart skip a beat—Luna, the dog, was an uncanny replica of my beloved Tuggy, who had recently passed away. And if that weren’t enough, the musician’s guitar case lay open, revealing a sign in bold black letters on chart paper:

“All You Need Is Love.”

It was my epiphanic moment. A rush of gratitude swept over me. The Universe had sent its answer, lifting the haze from my mind. I knew then that this surreal moment in Zagreb—this melody, the cheerful old musician, his pleasant wife, and the black dog Luna—would remain one of my most treasured travel memories.

For me, Zagreb will always be more than just a city of history, legends, and education. It will forever be the place where the Universe and I connected—through a message of hope and love.


*Dr. Manjiri Prabhu is an award-winning international author, short filmmaker, and the curator & founder/director of two international festivals. 

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