NRI PULSE STAFF REPORT
Milan, Italy, June 24, 2025— Italian luxury fashion house Prada unveiled a new line of men’s sandals during its Spring/Summer 2026 show at Milan Fashion Week that has stirred both admiration and controversy. The reason? The sandals closely resemble Kolhapuri chappals, a centuries-old handcrafted leather footwear from Maharashtra, India—without any clear acknowledgment of their origins.
At least four pairs of sandals showcased on the runway featured the classic elements of Kolhapuris: brown vegetable-tanned leather, toe loops, and the signature T-strap design. Observers noted that even Prada’s runway invites included a leather loop reminiscent of the toe ring, further cementing the connection to India’s traditional footwear.
While the designs themselves received praise for their minimalistic elegance, many critics in India and across the diaspora were quick to point out the lack of attribution. “Prada SS26 includes Kolhapuri chappals, which originated from Kolhapur, Maharashtra,” wrote one user on X (formerly Twitter). “The Western fashion industry is ripping off Indian fashion again.”
Kolhapuri chappals trace their origins back to the 12th century, crafted by artisans in Maharashtra and parts of Karnataka. Known for their durability and intricate hand-stitching, these chappals are made from vegetable-dyed leather and have been granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag to protect their cultural identity.
In recent years, the Kolhapuri industry has faced several challenges, including a decline in skilled labor and restrictions on cattle slaughter that have impacted the availability of leather. While some Indian designers and grassroots initiatives continue to promote the footwear both domestically and globally, international recognition for the artisans remains limited.
The reaction to Prada’s collection has been divided. Some see it as a moment of cultural visibility. Others view it as yet another missed opportunity for a global fashion house to spotlight and uplift indigenous craftsmanship.
“While it’s heartening to see Indian design reach global platforms, luxury brands must move beyond aesthetic borrowing,” said one fashion critic. “Acknowledgment, collaboration, and fair compensation are key.”
As of press time, Prada had not issued any statement about the inspiration behind the sandals.
Observers say the fashion industry, now more than ever, has a responsibility to ensure cultural elements are not only showcased but also credited. With rising global interest in artisanal and sustainable fashion, this moment could serve as a turning point—if brands choose to walk the talk.
For those looking to support authentic Kolhapuri craftsmanship, labels such as Kalapuri, Aprajita Toor, and Anita Dongre continue to work closely with traditional artisans across India.
Cover photo courtesy: Prada/ Instagram.
