BY RANI SHARMA

Lucknowi chikan has a timeless elegance that few Indian traditional styles can surpass. Known for its exquisite needlework, lucknowi chikan has gained a lot of recognition in recent years in India and internationally because of media exposure. Today, it has become thestyle statement of almost every celebrity in India. At the other end of the spectrum, starched lucknowi sarees have been in the wardrobe of traditional women from several generations.

Today, the traditional needlework has evolved, and new concepts and designs are being churned out all the time. New fabrics, colors and threads are being used. But what remains unchanged is the fine needlework of countless village women who toil over one dress for several weeks.

The intricate embroidery of lucknowi chikan includes shadow work, tepchi work, knot embroidery and jali (net) work. Today, the fabric is embellished with sequins, crystals and silver thread work. The end product is never loud, in keeping with the traditional understated elegance of Lucknowi work.

Here we feature a kurti, a churidar suit, a sari and a lehenga.



Sari: A Lucknowi sari is a long-term investment and can be handed down to the daughters and daughters-in-law of the family. The trend these days to have chikan work on pure georgette, chiffon and net. The sari is usually embellished with mukesh (silver thread) work. Net saris usually have a background border of satin, and can be worn over matching satin skirts.

Kurti: White on white embroidery on voile. Handmade crochet is sown on to the edges. The button down kurti is cut in modern style and is embellished with crochet buttons. This sherwani style kurti can be worn over capris, which also has crochet lace at the bottom. The kurti may also be worn over a tie & dye salwar with matching crochet border. Another style would be to combine the white kurti and white churidar with a bandhni dupatta edged with broad white shimmer.

Suit: Off-white suit in pure georgette with murali and mukesh (silver thread) work. Matching dupatta. 

Lehnga: The latest trend to hit the fashion market, lucknowi chikan lehnga is for the summery evening function or for the sophisticated bride to wear on her reception. The kalis of the lehnga are edged with satin piping. The border is embellished with sequins of the same color as the fabric. Swarovski crystals add some refined glitter to the dress. The matching dupatta is fashioned out of plain georgette and has the same sequin border as the lehnga. A matching batua (purse) of the same fabric completes the look.

Jewelry: Only pearls and diamonds go with the sophistication of a lucknowi dress. Wear pearl or diamond studs, a string of pearls or a small diamond pendant around the neck and simple bangles.

Accessories: Flats, criss cross sandals or kolhapuris. For saris or lehngas, simple 2-inch heels in off-white color are perfect. Carry a small leather off-white purse.

Make-up: Light, subtle makeup. No bright eye shadows please.

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